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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
Posts: 3244
Location: Darwin... sort of.
GME 3120S UHF

This turned up the other day, I can't believe how small these things are now.
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It's a 3120S GME and it's their latest model at time of writing, it has a speaker both on the unit and the microphone, you can have both or choose between the two which is great for me because of where I want to put it and most importantly for me it has a rotary knob to change channels and not buttons, the mic does have buttons though. It has every bell and whistle you could think of, most of it useless to the average person of course, and the mic plugs into the back of this unit keeping the front of the dash uncluttered .

I decided to put it in the top little pocket as I find it useless and pretty much don't use it anyway and the bottom pocket takes it a little bit too close to a nasty coiled up snake that lives in that area that's just better not to interfere with...
It's that yellow thing that you can see and it's the airbag control module, which is best left alone and given wide berth, I don't recommend picking up power from that unless you want to make the news or YouTube..... I picked mine up from the good 'ol ciggy lighter.
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Installing here is a matter of removing the centre console, which is very simple, just remove the gear knob, a screw either side of the transmission tunnel, one in the centre and two in storage box. Then it's just a matter of wrestling it over the handbrake.

Then just cut the back out of the pocket for the cables.. if done properly it will pretty much hold itself in, but mines Velcroed.
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I ran the mic around the back of the centre console and attached it up beside the heater controls where its out of the way and easy to get at.
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 10:35 am 
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Danno you are bloody awesome! Thanks heaps for sharing so many pics with step by step instructions on how to install these parts.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:51 pm 
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Bojordan wrote:
Danno mate I have a question for you, I recently installed a new bullbar and while my wheel guard was off I had a look at the snorkel joins to see how it was sealed and it wasn't, the pipe wriggles around and it is clear it wasn't left to cure properly before it was installed so I have to pull it apart and do what you did. What sealant did you use? Glue or silicone and what kind? Cheers


Just to make sure were on the same page here, you would not need the inner wheel guard off to see the joins that need to be sealed together, the one that you can see up under the wheel guard is only hose clamped and should not really need to be sealed just tight.

So the ones that need to be sealed attach directly to the airbox and if they are wriggling around more than likely they haven't even attempted to seal it, which wouldn't surprise me at all and people really need to check it because it will suck water straight through there. To do it properly you have to pull the airbox out obviously.

You could use ordinary silicon no worries I suppose but I'm not a big fan of silicon for things like this so I use a product called Sikaflex-Auto, which is a car body sealant which basically turns into a super adhesive rubber that joins anything together and stays flexible, I've found out the hard way that anything joined with this stuff is pretty well permanent so it's ideal for this sort of thing which you should never need to pull apart again.
You can get it at Bunnings in the silicon aisle and it's cheap.

Cheers.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 6:30 am 
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Location: Canberra
This is what my trucks going to look like when I get it. White LSM black mcc bar with the safari :-)

Keen to see some more pics danno if you get a chance :-)

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 8:43 am 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Yeah, I'll put some up shortly mate, I have to get it out to take some pics of something I've just fitted from a very well known brand that turned out to be incredibly dodgy and basically rubbish that I will now have to send back to Vic. (I think) from Darwin and if they think I'm paying the 250 odd in freight they're in for a shock. If I lived closer somebody would be walking very funny for a while.
I can't name them unfortunately, but there are ways around that if they give me a hard time.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 6:02 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
PROVENT 200 INSTALLATION

So the next challenge was fitting a Provent, for those that don't know what a Provent is or what it does I suggest you Google it and see what can happen to a motor long term without something like this fitted to stop oil vapor from the crankcase getting into the induction side of the motor, clogging up the intercooler with oil is just one thing, it gets worse from there.

When buying one of these avoid eBay because most of them are Chinese fakes, Western Filters is a good place to start as they only sell genuine, there may be others I didn't bother looking any further.

This is what turned up, I only bought the unit itself and the two reducers required for the D Max, you can buy it all in a kit but I didn't need all the extra hosing because of where I put mine.
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The easiest spot to put this would be between the battery and the fuel filter, there is plenty of room there but the hoses will have to cross over the motor probably around the back, you'll probably need about 2 m of hose for that.
I've got a second fuel filter sitting in that spot so it wasn't possible for me anyway, so I decided to stick it here in behind the ABS unit and next to the brake master cylinder.
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Don't be fooled by by the pic, go and have a look there's not as much room there as there looks.

The Provent comes with a mounting bracket that allows you to move it up and down a little bit and to spin it 360°, so after a long time standing there (read hrs here and a lot of hands on hipping and frowning) trying to get the orientation correct so that nothing touched I finally found the sweet spot, it's actually tricky just getting the unit in and out of there and I nearly gave up thinking there was no way you could have it in there without touching/rubbing on something, and it's a place where you really don't want anything rubbing.

The bracket itself uses the bolts on one side of the ABS unit which I cannot get a good photo of but it's fairly obvious if you look, nothing is straightforward about the bracket everything is bent or twisted one way or another.
This is how it started...
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and this is how it ended up. (ignore the crappy welding, when I'm a bit pushed for time I weld with the policy that "I have thick paint somewhere in the shed" and just get it done and tidy it up later.)
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so this is how tight it ends up being..
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and then the hoses have to be fitted, which are 25mm at the start then reduced to 16mm., instead of buying straight hose I went down to Supercheeep and rummaged around their heater hose "pile" until I found some 25 & 16mm hoses that already had bends molded into them, this saves a lot of hassle getting hoses to go around things smoothly.
Routing the hoses through is tricky but do-able without rubbing on anything if you managed to pick the right bends.
So the end result is this, not one thing touches or rubs on anything.
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Some things I should point out here, the Provent requires very infrequent servicing, that being a filter change that requires the top lid to come off, you cannot do that in this position without undoing the bracket and tilting everything forward which to me is just a mild inconvenience to have it out of the way using some otherwise useless space, and real estate under the D Max bonnet is hard to come by.

In the space where this is installed absolutely nothing can rub because it's surrounded by brake lines and the ABS unit, so cable tying it in there is probably not the best of ideas... And don't laugh, since doing this a few months ago I have since seen two very shonky efforts that are just future accidents looking for a place to happen.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 12:55 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
sucksqueezebangblow wrote:
awesome work! how many extra brackets did you make to sell? and can I grab one please?


I bought a Provent, the same week I bought the Dmax, but gave up installing it.

I made up a simple bracket for between the fuel filter and battery - easy enough.

However, I couldn't find a way to route the thick hose to the other side of the motor without them rubbing so aborted the whole idea and sold the Provent.

It may be time to teach myself to weld with my father in law....


I've been asked a few times if I could make more and how much, I reckon with the r&d, the hours of hands on hipping and arm folding and of course the swearing each one would be worth about 900 bucks :lol:
The second fuel filter near the original required a bracket that made this one seem very simple, an absolute mongrel of a thing to make because of the weight of the unit.

Cheers.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:50 pm 
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DRover wrote:
Hi Danno, I'm super impressed with your GME radio and the way you've fitted it (posted 9 July). Thanks for sharing the installation tips. Have you had a chance to test the performance of the UHF? Are you happy with it?
BTW - also impressed with all the work you're doing on the truck.


Thanks mate, it's a great little unit with some neat touches like the speaker in the mic (no more leaning towards the speaker to hear a faint signal), the mic plugs into the back which unclutters the dash nicely and the choice of channel buttons on the mic or rotary knob on the unit itself (hate buttons!)
As far as performance goes I can't fault it but that's mainly influenced by your aerial anyway, I have an old Col 6 hooked up and it does the job nicely, it'll be the 3rd time 'round Oz for that one.
Best of all is the price, they can be had for under 260 online now, I paid a little bit more but they were a new release then.

Cheers.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 12:08 pm 
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Myst wrote:
Great build Danno, have enjoyed reading and will shamefully admit that many of your ideas will be poached!


Yeah I've poached a few myself from time to time, that's what's good about having a collective mind to refer to.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:26 pm 
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"LONG RANGER" LR FUEL TANK.

I thought I'd put the fuel tank up next as there's been some interest in them on the forum of late.

It was a mongrel of a thing to put in and took a few days to sort out, the main problems were the routing of the fuel lines which now have to go down the top of the chassis rail and getting all the wiring and brake lines out of the way including the dual battery cabling which passes above the tank, to do all this properly the tank has to come in and out a few times which is a battle in itself as it has to go up over the tail shaft and there's barely any room to then push it up, although once up the tail shaft helps support it. All the while you're doing this you have to make sure that the fuel filler lines are going up into the right spot which is a drama in itself. If you have this tank fitted for you you MUST check all the clearances.

The tank is the redesigned Long Ranger 145 L, this one hangs a bit below the chassis line with the 127 L version sitting level with the chassis, the Brown Davis 127 L hangs below the chassis almost as much for comparison so they've done a good job getting an extra 18l in.

The tank turned up like this in the box flopping around wearing the paint off the tank, the main sealing plug had fallen out and the tank was full of dust and crap, the instructions stress that cleanliness was everything and the tank would have been cleaned out at the factory and be spotlessly clean inside..... and then say put a plug in the hole that it clearly doesn't fit... unreal, according to ARB this is how they all turn up...
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The OEM tank is only held in by two straps and to bolts and of course all the fuel lines, so it was very easy to remove
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The two tanks side by side, pretty amazing.
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Next up we have to cut one of the original fuel tanks mounts off which is a pita because it makes it impossible to put the original fuel tank back in without welding the part back on, and I don't generally like cutting into the chassis it gives me the willy's.
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To be left with this..
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The fuel sender unit is then removed from the original tank and the float arm changed to suit the new tank, the float is adjusted so it's sitting 5 mm above the bottom of the sender unit which should make the gauge accurate, which it nearly did..
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It's then installed into the new tank using the original O ring, the O ring channel on the new tank was full of paint and had to be scraped out, I'm sure it wouldn't have been that hard to cover it up when painting..
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Next up was the fuel lines, on the original tank the fuel lines ran from the sender unit on top of the tank right down through the middle, on the new tank you obviously can't do that and it exits right into chassis rail, it then runs down the chassis rail for a bit over some electrical cabling that can't be moved and then back in underneath the car to be twisted around and joined on to the fuel lines, the whole thing is very awkward. When I discovered this I removed the tank and covered the fuel lines to prevent them wearing through anywhere.
This is why I like to do these things myself as there is no way our pimply faced nose ringed apprentice is going to bother with anything like that, and once the tank is fitted it can't be fixed.
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So it goes in and these lines are reconnected, which isn't as easy as it looks to get them up there
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And the end result is this, every square inch of the available room has been used including up and over the top of the tail shaft, however there is no chance of it making contact. (I'll add more pics of the clearances soon)
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This is why the bracket has to be cut off.
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This is how far it hangs down.
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With 70 L in the tank which is more or less half the fuel gauge sits a crack above halfway which is near enough for me.
I've yet to fill the tank but because it holds a lot more fuel in the top half than the bottom it takes a long time before the fuel gauge will start to move.

The only thing that doesn't work on the trip meter is the distance to empty, my Ultragauge takes over that anyway, a Scangauge will do the same thing.

Edit: For those considering doing the LR tank before your suspension upgrade you must remove this part that is covering the nut on the front pin of the leaf spring (inner chassis) just undo the small bolt, I have no idea why it's there other than to catch out young players who won't mind having to pull the tank out again to remove the spring....it nearly caught me..
Image

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