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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:54 am 
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Great info Danno, I'm sure a lot of us appreciate the time taken to get the pics and post it up for us!

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 6:59 am 
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Location: Darling Downs. Qld
Yes, many thanks Danno. Appreciate your photos and words.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 4:19 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
bravoboy300 wrote:
Good build, not sure I'd liketo cut my chassis though


I wasn't that comfortable cutting into my 40 odd thou car either, but it's in no way structural and in the unlikely event that the standard tank had to go back in it's easily welded back on.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:19 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Just an update on the fuel gauge accuracy, with the help of the Ultragauge and the fuel bowser to tell me the litres in the tank, it turns out to be fairly accurate, half is pretty much half on the gauge only being a small amount out, 1/4 is about the same, probably no more out than factory though, we all assume the oem is accurate but its unlikely it is anyway, the light comes on with about 25-30 left and starts flashing at about 20, remember how big this tank is so 20L is fairly shallow in it so the sender will think there's a lot less, nothing to be done about that.
Yet to test 3/4 but I expect it might go a little bit out there because the tank opens a bit up, remember that the top half of the tank is bigger than the bottom, which will confuse the sender a bit.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2014 9:22 am 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
meggs wrote:
Interesting thread. A couple of questions if you are up to answering them.
As for the fuel tank Brown and Davis say their tanks are a direct bolt in so from that I would assume that you would not have to cut the old mounting, would you know if their statement is correct or are they "massaging" the truth?
In all your modifications so far how much skin have you lost?


The brown and davis tank sits below the chassis line a fair way but only holds 127L, if its going to hang down it might as well hold 147L!, as for fitting I don't know but I cant see how they would do it where you have to cut, maybe thats why they don't hold as much.

As for skin not a hell of a lot, but the dog pen is right next to the carport and the missus reckons she dropped some of his food the other day when feeding him and he said clearly.... "Oh for f**** sake!"

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 6:41 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
MANUAL GEARBOX, TRANSFER & REAR DIFF BREATHERS

Well, the good news is I've figured out how to extend the g-box & transfer breathers correctly and completed mine, the bad news for some is that it's not straightforward unfortunately and will require some drilling and tapping and a bit of spanner work.

Although not straightforward neither is it difficult, but will take the best part of a day at least for those not accustomed to doing these things as it involves among other things pulling the centre console out along with the gearstick and the gearstick extension housing and everything in between.

So I've written this walkthrough for those who might be a bit "spannerly" challenged but definitely want the breathers done.
If I haven't made something clear enough just ask and I'll put more info up.

So it turns out the transfer and separate 4wd actuator (the small tube you can see running from the very back of the gearbox/transfer) are both plumbed to vent into the cavity between where the transfer case and gearbox are bolted together, there is a small drain hole at the bottom much like the one at the bottom of the bell housing to allow any water to escape, unlikely it would get up there however so it's not an all bad idea, but we like them higher than that.

The gearbox breather turned out to be in the gearstick extension housing, it took a long time and some fancy acrobatics to find that one by pressurising the gearbox until I figured out where the air was coming out. Thought I might be up for a Darwin award there at one point.

To do this job you will at least need a set of G 1/8 BSPF taps & tap wrench and a 1/8 brass hose fitting for 6mm or 1/4 vacuum tube. Repco or SCA or whoever will have these fittings, Bunnings may have the taps, if not Blackwoods or similar or even a bolt supply place will have them.

- at least 4m of 6mm or 1/4 (ID) of vacuum tube, -Repco or the like again.

-2.5 m of 3/16 or 4-4.5 tube.

-8.7mm drill for the taps.

First thing is to pull the console out, remove the gear knob and the following screws-
Image
Image
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Then pull this out from in front of the handbrake so you can lift it up and forward from the back and then pull it backwards, don't forget to unplug the ciggy lighter.
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Remove the rubber boot surround and pull it up and off the stick, it will turn inside out and probably come away from the metal surround.
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Undo the 4 bolts around the stick...don't panic, springs, washers, gears and ball bearings are not going to fly everywhere...
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And remove the stick and then the 4 bolts holding the extension housing on..
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To get the housing off you may have to tap it gently sideways a bit to loosen it off it's locating dowels
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This is what you'll be left with.
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Put all that aside for now as we now have easy access to the transfer and actuator breathers looking down through the hole.
-This is what you will see, only the "u" shaped tube that runs between the two large fittings I've already removed, the black line represents this, remove the tube and discard.
-The smaller tube 4mm or 3/16 (green) is the actuator breather, remove it also and block the hole, I just cut a piece of tube and filled one end with silastic and put it back on.
-The one circled red is the transfer breather, leave it open.
-The one circled blue needs to be blocked same as above.
Image

Now pull the 3/16 line off the back of the transfer and discard, replace it with the 2.5m you bought, run it along the top of the box using cable ties to existing clips towards the front of the car until you reach the firewall and just leave it there for now.
-Attach the 6mm line to the fitting circled red above and do the same.
Image
That takes care of the transfer & actuator breathers.


Now for the Gearbox itself.
If you grab the extension housing, at the rear of it you will see a small 2-3mm hole at the bottom, this is the breather hole, you can follow the path that's been left for it.
Image
Image
Image

The area above the existing breather hole is the thickest part available to us to drill and tap solidly, so grab a 4-5mm drill and drill a pilot hole about halfway up,followed by the 8.7.
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Then turn it over and using the 4-5mm drill drill a hole through here into the cavity above where we've just put the hole for the brass fitting bypassing the tiny breather slot up beside the gearstick bush altogether.
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Now place it in a vice and tap the 8.4mm hole with the 1/8 tap, use the one with the most taper on it and use wd40 or lanolin as a lubricant when doing this and make sure to keep the tap straight as you go down, being a large tap with a very fine thread can make this difficult so take your time.
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Remember to block the little hole off as well.
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Screw the brass fitting in, do not overtighten, use thread sealer if you want.
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Re-fit the housing back onto the gearbox using a very thin smear of silastic or your sealer of choice and attach the second 2m length of tube.
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Thats it, re-install everything in reverse order until it looks like before you started inside.

Now run the 3 lines together up the firewall under the brake booster using cable ties where you can but avoid using or touching the brake lines obviously.
Once out at the top you will need to run them to some kind of filter arrangement, this is how I did mine..the breathers from the front diff also run to this block.
Image

Anything I've missed or more detail you require just ask.


Rear Diff Breather by Dopomax

And now to the rear diff breather. The factory one is just too low. It’s fitted on the cross member just under the tub floor. I removed the existing tubing and kept the breather bit and fitted a longer hose which picked up the existing mounts on the cross member. Then the tube runs towards the fuel tank then down the chassis rail following the wiring loom and up in the left hand side tail light area. The picture is with the rear LHS tail light removed. There was an existing hole in the tub inners for a p clamp to hold the hose. So the breather is now at the same height as the top of the tub rail, if I have water up here, I will have other things to worry about, remember the breather valve you removed from the diff works on a different principle that 's not required on the end of an extended breather and will actually defeat the purpose altogether.
Perfect and a very easy and cheap modification.

Image
Image

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 5:53 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
meggs wrote:
Danno wrote:
trigger the airbags while splicing into the electrical system.

I hope that is a tongue in cheek remark as I wouldn't expect that you would interfere with the air bag sensors.


What a stupid comment to put inside someones build thread?? (or any thread for that matter), why would you cut a small section out of a statement and throw it completely out of context??????

This is the entire line and it involves me splicing into the wiring for the bloody fog lights and indicators for the bullbar and is under a pic on page 1.

"Inner guards and grill back on and lights all hooked up, which was a pretty straightforward exercise and I managed not to set off the self destruct sequence or trigger the airbags while splicing into the electrical system."

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 9:09 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Turkey wrote:
Anyone know what size is the hose on the rear pumpkin? I need to do the extension on mine.


6mm

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 2:19 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Turkey wrote:
Danno wrote:
Turkey wrote:
Anyone know what size is the hose on the rear pumpkin? I need to do the extension on mine.


6mm


Cheers mate,

Dopo didnt mention what length he used to get it up into the taillight. Any idea?


2-1/2m will get you there comfortably.

Don't put the valve that you remove from the diff on the end of your extension, you will completely defeat the purpose and make the diff suck water.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 1:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 10:23 pm
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
AVM FREEWHEEL HUBS

There's been some interest in this of late so I thought I'd put this up.

I decided on AVM hubs for mine because they're well priced with a very good rep and easy to get parts for when out in the boonies should something fail, I would suggest always carrying the oem hub with you just in case.

I got mine from Terrain Tamer because they were 30 bucks cheaper than anywhere else, including online.

They are a 433 17 spline for our cars, incidentally they will fit on an 87 Jackaroo!

So this is how they turn up, made in Brazil of all places!
Image

No need to remove the wheel, just pop the centre cap off and you will see this, use an allen key and remove all the bolts...
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Remove the hub cover and you will be met with this, after cleaning the grease off you will see a circlip around the splined shaft with shim/s behind it, remove the circlip and shims.
Image
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After removing the shims & circlip slide the driveplate off the shaft and put aside, you won't need it or the cover again.
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The AVM hub is in 2 pieces, take the bottom half and make sure that all the little nicks and burrs are flat..
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The hub comes with a soft gasket, I prefer not to use them because they are slippery and soft and will eventually allow the hub to work itself loose, I use one of those anaerobic gasket sealers very thinly.
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After bolting the plate back on with the supplied allen heads in the same manner you took the old plate off (make sure they're TIGHT you don't want them coming loose, but don't over do it..) It's time to check and adjust the freeplay...put the circlip and original shims back in place and take a feeler gauge and check how much clearance (if any) there is between the shims/circlip and the hub face (see pic) you are looking for between 0.1 and 0.2, get this RIGHT it is very important, do not cut corners here.
If it's out you will need to adjust it with different size shims that you get from Isuzu, I would suggest that you go there and get some different sizes before you start this as they will more than likely have to order the bloody things in and they are only a few dollars each. You should be able to mix and match both sides to get it right.
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Now screw the switch part on, you will need one of those Torx drivers for that and they taper lock so don't over tighten, and I suggest you carry it with you in the car just in case those bolts work loose and you need to get at them...
Image

And that's it..

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