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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 3:37 pm 
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Location: centre east mexican
G'day Danno, great work on this thread,
Regarding the avm hubs, could you tell me how much they poke out or how high are they sitting in the box in that first picture, I'm just wondering if they protrude past the tyre, I'm running 265/65/17 tyres on lsu stock alloy rims.

Thanks in advance Mark.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 4:03 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
paintah wrote:
G'day Danno, great work on this thread,
Regarding the avm hubs, could you tell me how much they poke out or how high are they sitting in the box in that first picture, I'm just wondering if they protrude past the tyre, I'm running 265/65/17 tyres on lsu stock alloy rims.

Thanks in advance Mark.


They are about 65-70mm and with a 265 tyre sit almost almost dead level with the tyre.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 9:44 pm 
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Discussion moved to Front Hubs here viewtopic.php?f=4&t=340&hilit=HUBS&start=80

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 1:26 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
TYRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM

I decided to fit one of these systems to the D Max, although a little bit reluctantly because there's really nowhere left to put anything neatly on the dash in view other than the windscreen which I don't like, after doing a lot of research I decided on the good old Tyre Dog brand with external sensors as the internal sensors can play up a bit with reception issues and hard to swap to the spare etc.

So here's the trick, if you go and buy the one I've got from one of the three letter companies you will most probably get one that is made in China and all the things that go with that, expect to return it at least once, but if you buy it online (ebay) you will get one that's made in Taiwan and pay 100 bucks less delivered, the quality between China and Taiwan is miles apart and they supply English instructions.

I ordered a TD1400A-x4 with the coloured screen for about 250 odd delivered, all the while wondering where I was going to put it. When it turned up a week later I pulled out this..
Image
problem solved, that'll go anywhere! I didn't realise it was so small so I'll just Velcro it to the dash somewhere and being battery operated you don't need to run a lead to it if you don't want and when nothings happening it goes to sleep to save the batteries while still monitoring, it will wake up and let you know if something's wrong with pressure and temperature in any of the tyres, it also comes with a 12 volt connector and will keep the screen on all the time if plugged in.

This is what the sensors look like, they are large but don't affect wheel balance and a 265 tyre is wide enough to protect them.
Image

After a couple of weeks of testing there's no reception issues wherever I put it, which can be a problem with these things and it's very accurate, so far it gets the thumbs up.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2013 7:54 pm
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Location: Darling Downs. Qld
Thanks for posting. I want a TPMS before our next big trip and it is good to hear of your experience rather than some random advertising blurb on ebay.

Mate, do you have a link or ebay store name.

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 1:47 pm 
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Location: Darwin... sort of.
Tink wrote:
Thanks for posting. I want a TPMS before our next big trip and it is good to hear of your experience rather than some random advertising blurb on ebay.

Mate, do you have a link or ebay store name.

Thanks.


I'll find it for you, I should have done that before posting this... :roll:

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 10:43 pm 
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Danno wrote:
A bit of a tip for those with LRA or any other long range tank, or considering one.

I have a 147l LRA and I decided to find out how many litres you could actually use out of the tank before you grind to a halt, the problem with these tanks is that they are so long wide and flat on the bottom that they can be holding quite a lot of fuel but because of the size it ends up too shallow for the pickup which is in the middle of the tank, especially if you head up or down a hill when all the fuel rushes to the appropriate and and leaves the pickup high and dry.

I have an Ultragauge fitted to my D Max and it will tell me exactly how many litres are left in the tank (very handy and surprisingly accurate), so it got down to 15 L and all was okay until I hit a slight decline and it coughed and was quickly shut down, so in effect 20 L would be the minimum you could have in the tank, with the OEM tank I would expect you could use at least 10 L more, leaving you with 10 before you might start to have issues, which is about 100 km.

So my 147 L tank is actually only a 127 L effectively, which is something to bear in mind when you're working out how far you can get on one of these tanks between refuels and what size tank you're going to fit in the first place.



Have to do a little bit of a retraction on this after talking with the designer, it turns out the tanks are closer to 155 or so but rated at 147 for various reasons, I calibrated my Ultragauge on the exactly 60L I put in the tank when in fact I should have told it 50L as the tank is designed to ignore the first 10 or so that it can't pick up, so in effect I only really had 5 or so litres in the tank, so looking at it from that point of view it really didn't do too badly.

Btw that is not the correct way to calibrate a UG for fuel usage, the correct way is to fuel it up, drive it and re-fuel it a few times to get an average fuel usage and then plug that number in. My problem is I don't need or want it sitting there with 150L in it and hardly being driven so it's never been calibrated properly. :roll:

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 6:37 pm 
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meggs wrote:
Danno after my debacle with the canopy I sat down and thoroughly read the fitting instructions for the tank trying to preempt any cockups I might run into with the Colorado/Dmax difference.

A couple of points did you rub any rubber grease or other compound on the O ring for the tank takeoff and how far did you have to drop the old tank so you could get access to the plug on top and when you took the cover off the guard did you use the old fasteners or replace them?

I am lucky in I have the luxury of using a pit to fit the tank however I have done it on the ground before.


Didn't bother with any grease or whatever, there's definitely no sealing issues there, the tank doesn't have to come down far, I think you can nearly reach it anyway can't you?

If you mean the inner guard covering the filler I just used the original ones.

Getting those fuel filler tubes back into position when refitting the tank was a real pita on my tank, it will help if you have someone to guide them as your fitting the tank.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:28 pm 
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Tink wrote:
Danno wrote:
Danno wrote:
A bit of a tip for those with LRA or any other long range tank, or considering one.

I have a 147l LRA and I decided to find out how many litres you could actually use out of the tank before you grind to a halt, the problem with these tanks is that they are so long wide and flat on the bottom that they can be holding quite a lot of fuel but because of the size it ends up too shallow for the pickup which is in the middle of the tank, especially if you head up or down a hill when all the fuel rushes to the appropriate and and leaves the pickup high and dry.

I have an Ultragauge fitted to my D Max and it will tell me exactly how many litres are left in the tank (very handy and surprisingly accurate), so it got down to 15 L and all was okay until I hit a slight decline and it coughed and was quickly shut down, so in effect 20 L would be the minimum you could have in the tank, with the OEM tank I would expect you could use at least 10 L more, leaving you with 10 before you might start to have issues, which is about 100 km.

So my 147 L tank is actually only a 127 L effectively, which is something to bear in mind when you're working out how far you can get on one of these tanks between refuels and what size tank you're going to fit in the first place.



Have to do a little bit of a retraction on this after talking with the designer, it turns out the tanks are closer to 155 or so but rated at 147 for various reasons


A post from another forum:

That last 10 litres or so remaining in the tank is so that you won't destroy cook/destroy the fuel injection system - petrol or diesel, doesn't matter, if the engine's got fuel injection then it needs to keep about 10-15 litres or so reamining in the tank!! Both types of engines use the fuel in the tank as coolant AND lubricant for the fuel/injection pump & fuel system/injectors, so if you suck that last 10-15 litres or so out you will probably be destroying expensive things!! Maybe not the very first time you run it dry, but that sort of damage done to I/P's & fuel pumps is irreversible & cumulative, so run the tank dry too often & your engine will firstly lose power & economy, then get hard to start, & eventually fail to run at all!! :eek:

So all modern fuel tanks are meant to be designed/constructed so that you can't run them bone dry; your engine needs that last little bit of fuel to stay in the tank to act as a cooling reservoir & lube for some fairly important engine components!! ;)


Tink


Yeah I know, I spoke with the actual designer of the tank for about an hour some time ago, and he explained how they design the tanks oversize and that I should've ignored the first 10L I put in when plugging the numbers into the UGauge, so effectively I really only had about 5-8 litres left in the tank when it ran out going down hill, hence the retraction and this is what the "various reasons" were in my post above that I had no time to get into, I went into more detail in another topic but can't find it.

Running out of fuel is a part of motoring life, everyone's done it and now they tell us our wizz bang motors can't handle that as well, I reckon this whole CRD principle needs a complete re-think and be re designed with "real world conditions" in mind rather than the "perfect world conditions" they are built for now, give me mechanical diesel fuel pumps and carby's any day of the week, screw the enviroment :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:36 pm 
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MAT713 wrote:
hey mate, have you got any shots of where you ended up mounting your trailer plug with the ARB rear step tow bar?

I'm installing mine ATM, first of all, how stupid are the 6 bolt holes you have to drill for the roll pan / beaver plate!

I don't want to use the ARB trailer plug spot for 2 reasons, 1) it's made for a round plug 2) wouldn't last long on a 4x4 track

I'm thinking a flush mount on the roll pan / beaver plate...


Yeah the position of the holes for that plate make me wonder about the ARB engineers, I just moved them inboard and used a couple of existing holes, the plug position is a headscratcher too, I just moved my large size 7 pin round onto the back.


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