NEW D-MAX /MUX /COLORADO FORUM

NEW D-MAX /MUX /COLORADO FORUM
It is currently Sat Jul 11, 2020 9:06 pm

All times are UTC + 8 hours


We have NEW server almost ready, try it out here


Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 68 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
Author Message
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 1:21 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1641
CN1980
Much has been talked about driveline shudder, especially in the earlier model where you can't easily lower the centre bracket. if the raise maintains the uni angles at close to each other in drive angle you may not have a problem. Many aftermarket springs of course hld the rear axle lower than original so that increases both rearmost uni angles. Unfortunately, many springs also increase/cause a downward pointing of the diff pinion shaft because the spring seating area isn't made to be slightly upward at the front of the pad. If that is happening then the two most rearward unis WILL be nowhere near each other in drive angle and you WILL then get driveline vibes. Shudder is usually a centre bracket bearing flogging/flexing sideways in it's rubber bellow housing. Happens at takeoff with high torque going through the uni and it is trying to escape sideways because of the increased drive angle. Sometimes the bracket is lowered to reduce that effect.
Initially you MAY need spring pad wedges with the thick edge to the rear so it restores the pinion shaft angle upward a bit and assists in restoring near equal drive angles of the unis. Most unis run slightly off line (essential to do that) but no more than a couple of degrees. If more it will be noticed. Earlier Dmax had the centre bracket bearing unit offset about 12mm so the uni never ran direct in line no matter what the load and axle position.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2020 6:29 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2020 7:22 am
Posts: 13
Location: Burleigh Waters
thanks mydmax,

seems like a bit of a hassle to lift the DMAX!.the stock suspension is pretty useless so i need to do something soon.where exactly do these spring pad wedges sit?.do they have to be fit at the time of the installation? or if you are having issues chuck them in afterwards?..


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2020 7:24 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1641
A Dmax is no more difficult to raise than any other vehicle. It appears you are unfamiliar with vehicles and their engineering. The rear axle has an inbuilt pad/area which the spring sits on. ie, spring pads. Surrounded by U bolts. Yes, you can add wedges afterwards but it is far more prudent to measure each and every uni drive angle with a digital level so you know what the angles are BEFORE any work. Then you have a reference point to work from the ensure no angle is excessive and the rearmost two unis are as close to each other in angle during and after fitment. So called "professional" installers never seem to measure any angle and simply rely on the parts being fitted do the job. I am alerting you to the possibility of it not being all correct when the "professional" man has finished. Most of them don't ever recognise they could be creating a problem for their customer and don't have much interest in admitting their is a problem ( if

one exists) and you can feel it. Even if you can't feel anything doesn't mean there isn't one and parts are wearing out faster than normal.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2020 8:22 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2020 7:22 am
Posts: 13
Location: Burleigh Waters
Thanks, im not a mechanic or suspension expert.The Dmax is my first 4wd and i have never lifted a vehicle before..I just want to gather enough information and opinions from people who have experienced lifting theirs so if there is a problem i know where to start looking.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2020 11:09 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1641
CN1980
We all start somewhere with vehicles and there is a lot to find out. That is why I mentioned a few things which may or may not happen, you can then be aware of any issues which may arise so have ability to rectify situations. I am a mechanic and used to teach apprentices at one point. I raised my 2011 Dmax and had shudder and torsional vibration of tail shaft. I expected it to happen and made my own correction wedges for the springs and lowered my tailshaft centre bearing around 18mm to correct running angles. I made a number of centre bearing lowering brackets (which apparently can't be done) so the shudder was eliminated. Sold some to WA, SA QLD. I reset my own springs and added a second, second leaf to suspension and removed the very lowest short spring segment. My springs are quite different to yours but similar conditions must be met for correct performance with out issues. With Bilstein shocks it handles loads and conditions which normally would bottom the suspension, ie, rubber buffers to the axle type forces with a caravan or T van on the rear. I threw all my shocks away after 5000km from new because they just DID NOT control the suspension. I don't know the characteristics of the current shape shockers but they could not be worse than my model was supplied with. Some people simply never realize their shocks are no good. Pass a Roadworthy OK but don't work in real life with towed loads and rougher roads.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2020 6:40 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2020 7:22 am
Posts: 13
Location: Burleigh Waters
Thanks for the advice mydmax, you have pointed me in the right direction.did a bit of research last night and have got my head around how the wedges etc work.will be investing in a digital angle finder to check everything before and after the lift.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2020 12:04 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:36 pm
Posts: 1641
CN1980
I have three digital levels, all for different purposes. One is a model helicopter blade angle register, very small but handy. Another is approx. 150mm long and aluminium frame. One larger as a builder would use. The smaller two can be held onto flat sections of the front end swivel/axle support and because of the machining being square to the ball joint axis you can easily and directly read the caster angle of the steering axis. Clean the surfaces first 'cos a bit of grit will stuff up any reading. Probably best check what it is before any front lift via springs. The largest gauge can be accurately attached to wheel face and the camber reading directly shown, read and recorded, like the caster angle. After a lift similar/same readings should have been restored. Raising the rear more than the front will cause a reduction in caster angle and steering self centreing a little less. 25mm rear lift will create approx. 1 degree less caster of front suspension. A vehicle always pulls to the least positive side if casters are not nearly the same.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 4:23 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sun May 03, 2020 4:51 pm
Posts: 2
Hey mate, I just bought the same colour/model/year LS-M as yours. Absolutely love it so far and really looking forward to building it up.

How did the light bar go tucked behind the grill? I'm keen to add one and would love to get it hidden away if possible. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 68 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

All times are UTC + 8 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group